Tuesday 29 September 2015
My Pico tank as at 16 Dec 12
After one year.......... no change of live stock for a long time...
All are doing very well....... except the tank is a bit of dirty with algae ...
All are doing very well....... except the tank is a bit of dirty with algae ...
Monday 9 September 2013
Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C)
Vitamin C has been shown that it will enhance the immune system of the fishes. It will also stimulate tissue growth that is helpful in head lateral line erosion diseases.
Vitamin C normally come in two forms
1) Ascorbic Acid
2) Sodium Ascorbate
Normally of the available products uses Ascorbic acid as shown below:
Kent Marine C:
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in aquaculture grade form of 2-sulfate dipotassium dihydrate
Brightwell Aquatics Vitamarin C:
Ascorbic acid (C) (min): 1,500 mg/oz.
The advantage of Sodium Ascorbate over Ascorbic acid is it have PH of 7.1 as compared with the Ascorbic acid of PH of 2.1. That is why most of the reef forum recommended this vitamin C
If you look at the consideration of available products such as Kent Marine C, you will find this statement:
"Marine•C is buffered but still slightly acidic, therefore it is important that pH and alkalinity be monitored during use of this product."
I have been using Sodium Ascorbate for a month after changing from the LFS available products such as this one shown below:
This is very cost effective.
Just added it to your pellets and add some water to soak the dry pellets before feeding.
Vitamin C normally come in two forms
1) Ascorbic Acid
2) Sodium Ascorbate
Normally of the available products uses Ascorbic acid as shown below:
Kent Marine C:
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in aquaculture grade form of 2-sulfate dipotassium dihydrate
Brightwell Aquatics Vitamarin C:
Ascorbic acid (C) (min): 1,500 mg/oz.
The advantage of Sodium Ascorbate over Ascorbic acid is it have PH of 7.1 as compared with the Ascorbic acid of PH of 2.1. That is why most of the reef forum recommended this vitamin C
If you look at the consideration of available products such as Kent Marine C, you will find this statement:
"Marine•C is buffered but still slightly acidic, therefore it is important that pH and alkalinity be monitored during use of this product."
I have been using Sodium Ascorbate for a month after changing from the LFS available products such as this one shown below:
This is very cost effective.
Just added it to your pellets and add some water to soak the dry pellets before feeding.
Wednesday 28 August 2013
Pico Tank as at 28 Aug 13
Due to work and family commitments, I am selling the complete pico tank or decom the tank if there is no taker.
Present livestocks:
a) 1x Pink skunk clownfish
b) 1x Banggai Cardinalfish
c) 1x Singapore angel
d) 1x tube worm
Last video:
Present livestocks:
a) 1x Pink skunk clownfish
b) 1x Banggai Cardinalfish
c) 1x Singapore angel
d) 1x tube worm
Last video:
Tuesday 23 July 2013
Marine Fish White Poop / Internal bacterial - Part 1/2
It is a common disease in marine fish as the fishes are caught from the wild. About 30% of the fishes have some kind of intestinal infection. You will see the fish is not eating at all, and there is white stringy poo. If not treated, the fish will slowly die. It will sometimes pass the disease to other fish in the tank.
Sometimes, you may see the fish is eating well, but do not means it does not have the internal disease. You still need to clear the intestine so that there is no problem in the future. If you are long enough in the hobby, you will realised that sometimes the fish is eating very well for weeks or months, suddenly stop eating and die. Part of the problem is the intestinal inflection becomes worst and causes the fish to stop eating. This is common in dwarf angels and large angels.
There is 3 basic causes of the internal problem, but I will not go in-depth to it technially. Just want to talk about the solutions.
1) Fish not eating:
Put the fish into QT and dose Praziquental
Chances of survial is very slim because the fish is not eating and it is difficult for the fish to absorb the medicine. So in the first place you should choose the fish from the LFS properly.
2) Fish eating (does not means no internal diseases): - Clear the internal disease. Sometimes, after a few weeks, the fish just stops eating and die, that is the reason you need to clear the internal disease with medicine and it is easier because you can feed the medicine to the fish as tit can be dosed in the fish foods.
Use Metronizazole.
Next part, I discuss my method of curing this internal bacterial disease and the medicine used, of course feeding one. Frankly speaking I also have very slim chance for curing the non-feeding one.
Sometimes, you may see the fish is eating well, but do not means it does not have the internal disease. You still need to clear the intestine so that there is no problem in the future. If you are long enough in the hobby, you will realised that sometimes the fish is eating very well for weeks or months, suddenly stop eating and die. Part of the problem is the intestinal inflection becomes worst and causes the fish to stop eating. This is common in dwarf angels and large angels.
There is 3 basic causes of the internal problem, but I will not go in-depth to it technially. Just want to talk about the solutions.
1) Fish not eating:
Put the fish into QT and dose Praziquental
Chances of survial is very slim because the fish is not eating and it is difficult for the fish to absorb the medicine. So in the first place you should choose the fish from the LFS properly.
2) Fish eating (does not means no internal diseases): - Clear the internal disease. Sometimes, after a few weeks, the fish just stops eating and die, that is the reason you need to clear the internal disease with medicine and it is easier because you can feed the medicine to the fish as tit can be dosed in the fish foods.
Use Metronizazole.
Next part, I discuss my method of curing this internal bacterial disease and the medicine used, of course feeding one. Frankly speaking I also have very slim chance for curing the non-feeding one.
Wednesday 3 July 2013
How to Quarantine Marine Fish
It is always important to quarantine the newly brought fish before introducing it to main display tank. Newly brought fishes carried diseases from from wild such as marine ich, velvet, flukes, worms, etc.
It normally need to quarantine for 3-4 weeks. Without quarantine the fish, it is very difficult to cure the fishes in the main display tank and it is very costly as some of the fishes will die once the disease enters the tank.
Below shows my quarantine tank
With the correct doses of cupramine, the challenge is the fish not eating and the external bacteria, such as pop eye, fin rot, skin ulcer, etc, coming in. No good solution....
A very good articles on quarantine from advanced aquarist is shown below:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/quarantining-marine-fish-made-simple
It normally need to quarantine for 3-4 weeks. Without quarantine the fish, it is very difficult to cure the fishes in the main display tank and it is very costly as some of the fishes will die once the disease enters the tank.
Below shows my quarantine tank
- Tank : It can made of a plastic tub, mine is from Ikea.
- Rocks : Add enough live rocks for the fish to hide and to generate enough good bacteria to prevent ammonia and NO2.
- Filter: I have a pump to pump water to container with filter media and sponge (something like a over head filter - DIY)
- Wave maker: It is good to have it to generate more flow in the water.
- Water change: I used water from the main display tank for water change (weekly) - Make sure the main tank does not have diseases.
- Medication: Cupramine and Praziquental
- Praziquental is for flukes and worms
- Cupramine is for ich
With the correct doses of cupramine, the challenge is the fish not eating and the external bacteria, such as pop eye, fin rot, skin ulcer, etc, coming in. No good solution....
A very good articles on quarantine from advanced aquarist is shown below:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/quarantining-marine-fish-made-simple
Tuesday 25 June 2013
Lionfish Fillet anyone?
If you are interested to eat a Lionfish after it grows too large in your aquarium:
But not for me ..........
One more:
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